Day 4: Bath – Shrewsbury

I love Bath. It’s a lovely clean, up market town and it just looks so different from anywhere else. Since we’d arrived so late yesterday, we came back into town this morning for a second look around.

The Roman Baths were stunning, as usual. There was more archeology uncovered since last time I was there. It’s cool that the site is a work in progress – there’s always something new to discover.

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After the baths we popped in to the Pump House (a Georgian tea rooms, very posh) for an underwhelming coffee, and then went to the nearby Apple Store, just because we could. I got an adorable little charm for my Pandora bracelet, and then we headed out of Dodge – to Shrewsbury via Chepstow.

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Chepstow (in South Wales) exceeded my expectations. The 12th century Norman castle was amazing. It has a huge castle complex, and although a ruin, is really well presented. We were able to roam all over the buildings, going up and down towers, along the ramparts, through all the rooms. Totally awesome, we were like kids in a castle-store.

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Stepping out of the castle after a good hour and a half, we found a cute little pub for lunch, a lovely hot meal after a bitterly cold morning. It had been raining and started hailing just as we finished at the castle. Luckily the sleet didn’t start until we were in the cosy warmth of our car.

We drove back into England for our next stop – Ludlow. We arrived much too late to visit the castle and it was seriously cold, so we’d ditched for today and decided we’d have another look tomorrow.

Our hotel in Shrewsbury is comfy, cosy and well appointed (and by that I mean free wifi).

Day 3: Bournemouth – Bath

We were up early again today (damn jet lag) so we packed up and left for Christchurch first thing. We had breakfast at a lovely little cafe (Cheese and Alphie) on the main road. Well, Stephen had breakfast while I glared at the gross pancakes I couldn’t eat (smothered in butter). On the up side, Christchurch has a nice little priory and a ruined motte and bailey castle. We were able to clamber up and around the ruin, it was pretty cool.

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After breakfast, the plan was to drive to Glastonbury, two hours away. About one hour into the drive, I noticed I didn’t have my wallet. I realised immediately that I’d left it on the nightstand in the hotel in Bournemouth. I called the hotel, and they confirmed they had it. There was nothing to do but drive back and get it.

So eventually we made it to Glastonbury mid-afternoon. What a weird place. It’s teeming with full-on hippies, mystic shops, tarot readers … that sort of thing. So very in-British, and so very interesting. Glastonbury is the site of a 12th century Norman abbey that was sacked under Henry VIII during the reformation – Glastonbury was staunchly Catholic and Henry had just created the Church of England. The sacking was the punishment for not bowing to the kings wishes.

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After Glastonbury was Wells Cathedral – a perfect contrast. It too is a 12th century construction (though Gothic), and it stands gleaming and tall, not a stone out of place. Wells converted to Church of England during the reformation so was spared the fate of churches and monasteries that displeased the king. Wells has been through a recent and extensive renovation and looks simply magnificent. Of particular note is the scissor arch – I’ve never seen one like this anywhere else.

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We were hoping to get to Bath Abbey too before closing, but arrived 30 minutes too late to see inside. Still, we had a good wander around the outside, and then found a Wagamama for a good hearty Japanese nosh-up. We will head back to Bath tomorrow to finish poking around.

Our accommodation for this evening is the very posh Winford Manor Hotel. Is clean and comfy and has no drips that I can see! Perfection.

Day 2: Brighton – Bournemouth

Since we were up before the sparrows anyway, we hit the road early this morning. Our first destination was Portsmouth, the home of Nelson’s flagship HMS Victory. It was pretty impressive – not the kind of thing you’d want to stumble upon out on the seven seas.

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The rest of the day was a round of castles and cathedrals and such like.

Winchester Cathedral

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Old Sarum (the former seat of power in Salisbury, sits atop a hill overlooking the Salisbury plain)

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Salisbury Cathedral
(view of the spire from Old Sarum)

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(the Cloisters)

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We popped in to visit Stonehenge on the way too, it’s an impressive set of standing stones. You can’t help but wonder at the stupidity of those people wasting so much energy getting the huge stones there and upright. It must have been really important to them!
(Stephen prancing)

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We finished our day on Bournemouth. It’s not a terribly attractive place, and to be honest our hotel is a bit of a hole (it had a leaky ceiling that’s dripping on Stephen). And another rock-hard bed. We might need to up our accommodation budget methinks…

Day 1: London – Brighton

I’m not even going to talk about the 11-hour flight from Christchurch to Singapore or the 13-hour flight from Singapore to London. The transit hotel at Changi Airport in Singapore was a godsend – it was so good to be able to shower and lay down between flights.

The journey from London to Brighton, on the other hand, was easy-as. Our lovely rental car agent from Hertz upgraded us to a brand new Nissan Duke with free sat-nav because she was from Christchurch and we are on our honeymoon. After a fairly straightforward (we only got lost once) hour and a half drive, we successfully navigated our way to the Brighton Apple Store. Yes, we went to the Apple Store before we checked into our hotel. It was early and we were killing time. And now Stephen will be able to kill time playing with his new 11″ MacBook Air. Whoop! It’s so pretty.

We decided in the afternoon to pop over to Arundel, 30 minutes drive away. It has a huge and impressive Norman castle (not open to the public unfortunately) and a lovely neo-Gothic Catholic cathedral. It is of a similar size, age and style to our Christ Church Cathedral (although grander and with a tower rather than a spire).

As I sat and looked up at the lovely vaulted ceiling, I couldn’t help but compare. It made me sad to think that ours is probably going to be gone soon. I lit a candle and said a remembrance for the 185 souls we lost.

And then I hear just now that our cathedral is coming down. I look forward to seeing what grows up in its place. I hope it is something magnificent.

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Being normal

I had a lovely day today. I’ve finally started relaxing after leaving the stress of Christchurch behind me on Wednesday.

We had a lovely lie-in this morning, and then went to Arrowtown to see my dear friend Lois for lunch. It’s such a beautiful location it’s hard to be stressed there.

We drove through Queenstown too, but didn’t stop. It’s a bit of a soulless place…

Tomorrow we return home. I’m eager to get back because we have a lot we need to sort out, but apprehensive as well. Being away for a few days has made me realise just how stressed the city feels. It almost feels like the whole city is grieving and it’s palatable.

We all need to figure out how to balance the stress and the sadness with happy moments and hope.